"Go Slow" in Caye Caulker, the small paradise in Belize

"Go Slow" is the slogan of the local people in Caye Caulker, the small paradise of the Caribbean, off the coast of Belize, the miniature country in the borders of Mexico and Guatemala, in Central America.

We left with a speed boat, early in the morning of a day in March, from the pier near the Swing bridge in the city of Belize. We meant to spend a relaxing day in the miniscule paradise.

Our choice was not made by chance; the "Go Slow" slogan of the locals was exactly what we really needed. In contrast to the tourist Ambergis Caye and its busy San Pedro, Caye Caulker is peaceful and quiet. The two little islands off the coast of Belize are very popular.

After 1 hour and ...20 miles we arrived in Caye Caulker where our wonderful friend, a gull welcomed us and seconds after, even before debarkation a massive downpour welcomed us too!!! The small rudimentary stilt bar, in the sea near the pier, gave us shelter from the tropical rainstorm. Palm trees stood helpless in the darkness at the mercy of the tropical storm that dashed against them.

Caye Caulker, a limestone coral island, a dot on the map, 8,20Km long (North- south) and 1,60 Km wide (East-west). A narrow waterway known as "Split" divides the island in two. Some people say that Split was created by the hurricane Hattie in 1961 that destroyed Belize City, but that is only a myth.

Hurricane Hattie hit the island, leaving 13 dead in the schoolhouse that was used as shelter. Later, four more hurricanes -the most recent one was Keith in the year 2000- devastated the island, which maximum altitude is 2,40m. At an hour's distance by boat, is the Great Blue Hole, perhaps the most famous diving location in Belize, with lots of fishes, sharks and coral reefs.

As the storm subsided and we came out of the bar we saw, in front of us, the shallow lagoon, with depth ranging from 0.15m to 4.30m (6" to 15 ft) and at 1 mile off the coast is the Belize Barrier Reef with waves smashing against it.

The exploration started from Front street, one of the three sand strewn roads of the island that runs along the east coast. Back Street runs along the west coast and the Middle Street runs exactly where you would expect it. Front Street is the busiest street and offers, by far, the most of the interesting tourist attractions.

There are very few cars in the island so ransportation is mostly conducted by golf carts, bicycles, or just walking. The only traffic sign in the island urges golf cart drivers and bike riders to "go slow"; a sign that is taken seriously!

By walking for 30 minutes I had seen all of the Caye Caulker village of 1300 inhabitants, with the local cultural influences of Mestizo, Garifuna and Creole. It is possible that the relaxed attitude is partially due to the strong Creole presence on the island, which vibrates at a typical "reggae" theme and the small Rastafarian community.

The buildings, mostly wooden, stilted on sand, multicolored, in absolute anarchy, with yards made into storage spaces of whatever useful or useless article, everywhere, demarcated and protected always by wooden fencing.

Everywhere in the Middle Street you could see small shops and benches with handicrafts; also several tiny beauty salons!!

Small and big hotels everywhere. Tourists of all ages and income classes have started appreciating the quiet atmosphere of the island.

Caye Caulker is a popular destination for scuba divers at Barrier Reef and the Great Blue Hole; anglers and tourists that seek to simply relax in the island, at reasonable prices. Although this beautiful island was well known for its boat building tradition and as a community of lobster fishermen, it is now more known for its diving sites, night life and parties. The island is now a hub for many painters and musicians.

Unfortunately the only beach available on the island is the white sand beach at Split; not very attractive at all, in my view. Most swimmers prefer the piers on the reef side of the island, such as that of the "Lazy Lizard" Bar. Sunbathing should be exercised with caution, as the coral sand is plain white and highly reflective of sunlight, that may cause mild sunburns even in the shade.

The northern part of the island -an attractive destination for kayaks- is full of mangroves which host an amazing variety of birds (Caye Caulker hosts more than 120 bird species).

Everywhere you can see scattered shells, piles of really big ones; Don't miss the chance to take one home with you as memento!

Caye Caulker has an abundance of fine restaurants that offer a vast choice of meals (fresh lobster and shellfish, typical Creole chicken, Mexican and Chinese dishes) at reasonable prices. We enjoyed a wonderful lunch with lobster and shellfish in "Rainbow", the restaurant with the incredible ornamentation, right on the wave front; that's where we found shelter from and enjoyed our second rainstorm!

Late in the afternoon, time to leave the so picturesque little island and its genuine and so friendly people, the pleasant breeze, the fresh shellfish the blue waters with the fantastic "Barrier Reef" at its doorstep.

On the way to Belize City, while enjoying the grandeur of the sunset through the heavy clouds, and while recollecting the experiences of the day, I valueded, once more, how calm and peaceful a relaxed and simple life can really be!

Go Slow!!!

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